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SEVEN STEPS TO STUDIO SHOOTING

Step one – the difference between ordinary shooting and studio shooting
Step Two – Configure the Camera
Step three – choose what to shoot
Step four – set up a bunch of camera – equipment
Step Five – Light Modifiers
Step six – arrange the equipment
Seventh step – go and take pictures
Step one – the difference between ordinary shooting and studio shooting

First I wanted to write that the first step to shooting in the studio should be to set up the camera, and then I thought about it, before setting up something, you need to make sure that this setting is needed at all, what kind of plan you need to set up, etc. If the photographer never shot in the studio and suddenly thought about such an experience – this will be the very first step on the way to studio shooting. After all, they come to her in different ways.
Curiosity leads someone into the studio, for someone the result is important – the work of others is impressive, there is a desire to learn the same way. Very often familiar girls are encouraged to shoot studio shots who want to get a “real portfolio,” so they drag almost any owner of an SLR camera into the studio for an impromptu photo shoot, and the photographer, after receiving a good result, “freezes” later in the studio on his own free will. Over time and with practice, he begins to lure his “victims” there independently. But let’s not get distracted!

What is the difference between shooting in the studio and the “usual”

How are traditionally filmed outside the studio? Beginners simply catch the subject in the lens, choosing the angle and building the frame as it is. In the best case, they put a model or object so that the pose looks comfortable, beautiful, harmonious, etc. More experienced ones can go further and, in addition to natural sources, start using artificial ones in the form of flashes to highlight shadows.

For me and for many professional photographers, studio shooting begins where artificial light painting occurs due to rearrangement of devices. There is no clear border, of course. Today, there are a lot of portable studio lighting fixtures, with which, with skillful use, you can interrupt sunlight and use it in general only to illuminate the background. Although there are photo studios that use large windows to get beautiful natural light, nevertheless, those photographers who “draw with artificial light” can rightly be considered studio photographers.

Why is studio photography so attractive? Two factors are important. Studio photography is most often an enclosed space where nothing distracts from the subject and there is a lot of diverse light at hand for use. If you want a hard one – please, now we’ll put on a reflector for you, if you want a soft score – here’s the oktobox. We need backlight – we put the illuminator behind the model and got it. Ah, was it necessary for the light to be blue? Sure, not a problem! Here you have a set of color filters – choose. As a result, the photographer involuntarily begins to understand the essence of photography – an understanding comes of how to draw with light so as not to twist the model so that the sun shines in the face and expose the light as needed and in the amount required by the idea.

Studio photography is a different level of freedom, when you fall into the enclosed space of the studio, you discover new spaces.

Step Two – Configure the Camera

Features of the camera setup for studio shooting come from the very atmosphere of studio shooting. In the studio everything is under control and most often no one is in a hurry. Although, of course, in rental photo studios, time costs money, but nevertheless, the atmosphere of photo studios does not imply rush.

Full control means that the camera is set to work in manual mode when all parameters are selected by the photographer. That is, regardless of whether you can shoot in automatic mode or not, you simply have to learn how to adjust the aperture, shutter speed and ISO. Only, perhaps, when working with constant light, you can try to shoot in automatic mode. Now there are monoblocks (Phottix Indra and Profoto B1) that allow you to work in TTL mode, but these modes are not for the studio.

Let’s look at the features of the setting. When working with constant light, there are no special restrictions. There are simple recommendations. Since there is usually a lot of light in the studio, it is recommended to set the ISO to minimum to get the best quality photo.

But if you work with pulsed light, then your familiar world of understanding the process can be shaken. The whole problem is exposure. When working with pulsed light, it does not solve much.

The fact is that the pulsed light is finite, that is, you open the curtains of the camera for ½ second or 1/100 second – you will not get more light from the flash. Flash length from 1/400 second and shorter. That is, in ½ second, the matrix of the camera will receive as much light as in 1/100 of a second.

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